VINTAGE COOKING: 300 Culinary Receipts (Pub. 1892): Excerpt #20

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Original Receipt (recipe:

Scrambled Eggs

 

Melt 3 ounces of butter in a saucepan, break into it twelve fresh eggs; season with a pinch of salt, half a pinch of pepper, and a third of a pinch of grated nutmeg.  Mix thoroughly without stopping for 3 minutes, using a spatula, and having the pan on a very hot stove.  Turn into a warm tureen, add a little verjuice or lemon juice, and send to the table very hot.

 

Scrambled eggs with lemon.JPGMy results:

I didn't use twelve eggs, but I did break my normal two eggs into a hot saucepan wth melted butter and scrambled with a spatula until almost cooked...about 30 seconds.  I removed and sprinkled with grated nutmeg (aren't you impressed that we have nutmeg and a grater?), salt, pepper and a little lemon juice.  The result wasn't visually attractive by today's standards.  The mix of yellow yolk and obvious whites was, well, unusual.  The flavor was fine, and the lemon was very interesting.  The nutmeg didn't move me either way.

The next morning I mixed 2 eggs in a bowl, per normal, and scrambled in melted butter/olive oil (trying to be healthier these days) per normal, then removed and seasoned with salt, pepper and a little lemon juice.   I liked it.

I'd say thumbs up on my modernized version of this receipt.

Before you get excited about my scrambling the eggs until almost cooked, understand that great scrambled eggs are done this way.  It takes experience, but you will learn to remove them from the pan just a moment early, and they will coast to a completed, custard-like texture on the serving dish.   No over-cooked, dried-out eggs for me, thank you.

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